Sole Saver | by Christian Hilton

My name is Christian; and I’m an addict; Of footwear; Of a particular brand of footwear. One of the UK’s oldest and most celebrated shoemakers. A name most people have had some connection with since childhood. C & J Clark International Ltd. Just plain Clarks to you and me.

Maybe writing this piece for ACM will be cathartic and allow me to finally let go of this ‘addiction’ which has been part of my life for most of my adult years. Then again, I doubt it. A prolonged sojourn into the realms of Adi in the late ’90’s and into the 2000’s didn't keep me from returning to the ‘suede upper and crepe soled’ goodness of Clarks and their 'Originals' label.

So where does this brand loyalty and love come from?  It can only be the past. Trying to cling in some small way to what’s gone before: as a kid being measured up ‘properly’ by the starchy dressed shop assistants and that machine - like something from the robotic future - that your young mind thought might crush your feet. Or maybe it’s ’89 - ’91 ‘Baggy era’ seeing Wallabees work so well with flared jeans, floral prints and tees on lads enjoying their ‘Summers of Love’. Then again it could be ’95 seeing the Gallagher's - before putting their name to Adi models - wearing 'Treks' and 'Desert Boots' (hard to believe now, but at some point we did look at them as knowing how to dress) or ’97 with Ashcroft iconically representing the 'Wallee' on the cover of 'Urban Hymns' or in the video for 'Bitter Sweet Symphony'.  Mad Richard gave the 'Wallabee' attitude. 

I know others got to my position of Clarks Love via different cultural routes - 'Wu Tang' for example; many hip-hop kids have never shied away from showing their love for the Clarks Booty.

So where am I now?  Well, one thing I'm not is a ‘collector’. I'm a buyer, an admirer and wearer. I'm not precious about the shoes I have. I wear them. Consume them. Use them. Some are kept in their boxes, others not.  None are really put on a pedestal.

I have nowt but utmost respect for those who over the last decade or so have sourced, cleaned up and repaired vintage ‘Made in England’ or ‘Made in Ireland’ Clarks; and I'm not saying I wouldn't love to own a cupboard full of ‘Pristine Shoe Porn’ like that. But I haven’t. What I have got, just like loads of you reading this is an expanding wardrobe full of Originals. Current count - 30(ish).

I'm lucky via location in that I live close to the (still) Street, Somerset based HQ of Clarks and with it the ‘potential’ goldmine of the outlet store.  Since moving here in ’99 I think back fondly of the gems I picked up and all at half RRP. Most of which are now long gone; worn to death and then discarded in the folly of youth. I have still got a couple of pairs from that time - 'Made in England' 'Treks' in sand suede, and a 'Made in Ireland' pair of 'Natalies' - shot to pieces, but having learnt my lesson of getting rid too quick, will never now let go.

So, favourite pairs?  Well, I love both the Oi Polloi edition 'Wallabees' from last year. What looked on first picture view as no great shakes, was as soon as you felt them and the quality suppleness of that ‘Unicorn’ (Elk leather) upper a truly great shoe. The choice of colour-ways wasn't half bad either.  'Wasabi' for the win for me. 

I'm a big lover of the ‘Polyveldt’ line of shoes - polyurethane soles and leather uppers - and of these, the 2 classics I'm most proud wearing are the 'Tan' 'Oberon' and 'Sand Leather' 'Ramblers'. Shoes which bring back an instant mental image of the mid 70‘s. Geography Teacher Chic of the highest order.

It’s this ability to access their extensive archive and bring life back to these lost ‘ugly-beautiful’ classics which I'm chuffed to see Originals running with and developing (As they did this season with the mighty 'Edgar Way'). With that in mind, I'm really excited by the brief view I've seen on some blogs of the AW'13 range, in particular the 'Wallabee Ridge' (reissue of the Deep Country / Caravan model) which alongside the 'Seam Trek' (an amalgamation of the best bits of a Rambler and Trek) see this reinterpretation of ‘classics’ returning.

Don’t get me wrong, I'm not oblivious to some of the ‘failings’ of the brand. Just because it’s designed and produced by Clarks Originals, doesn't mean I’ll buy it. I know the ‘Hipster Youth Market Sector’ needs to be reached, but older Connoisseurs mustn't be forgotten. In some areas I do believe quality could be improved, and to have a standard 'Wallabee' shape between Europe & The US would be ace.  In addition in these increasingly ‘Local’ times, how good would it be to have a 'Made In England' run of the classics - Desert Boot, Wallabee, Desert Trek for example all made to original specs?!

But no; this heartfelt piece hasn't cleansed me of my Clarks addiction. I do, increasingly lust after other shoes I see from different brands; especially those with a historical tale or material story to tell. But it’s Clarks Originals where my heart lies, and with which I’ll keep on keeping on.CH 

Guest post by Christian Hilton (@HiltonShoegazer)

Bucks & Co. | AW'13

Get Bucked Up this Autumn/Winter as Bucks & Co launch their latest collection for the Modernist Hunter. Mixing street style with traditional hunting details, the brand has created a unique look for today’s Alpha Male. The collection is made up of tailored denim pieces available in a range of contemporary washes and fits, as well as street inspired items such as hoods and sweats, all of which feature cleverly hidden crucial hunting details. 

Bucks & Co. is made for the 'Modernist hunter', taking inspiration from original hunting goods, from the smallest of details, such as the colour orange (warning/safety) concealed pockets, hidden bullet holders, 'D' rings (attachment for hunter I.D.), reinforced pocketing and stitching, any number of these inspiring but crucial details can be found on a bucks garment.

We have picked out what we believe to be the four key pieces in this collection; over-shirts, camo, Japanese styling, and of course the parka; ticking all the right boxes for us.

www.bucksandco.com

Veras | SS'13

Born in the Spanish hills, Veras, encapsulates the Mediterranean lifestyle, offering a unique take on the traditional espadrille. Neatly bridging the gap between a classic lace-up chukka boot and a classic slip on, Veras has built up a credible global following. The brand was founded by fashion insider, Neil Morris, who was inspired after a lengthy stay in the Spanish town of ‘Vera’. 

This season sees the brand experimenting with a bold colour palette of pastel pink and cobalt blue, whilst keeping their staple rustic, nautical styles firmly in tow. With an overall laid back approach, the brand maintains its look of classic and subtly tweaked designs, that are impressively simple, yet effortlessly stylish. 

With all footwear hand crafted by skilled craftsmen using premium leathers and woven soles direct from their Spanish factory, attention to detail is apparent throughout. A shoe invented for the sun-drenched Mediterranean, the lightweight espadrille-like design with a classic European style pump frame are perfect for staying cool through the day, yet effortlessly carry you through to the evening for an understated alternative.

With a range of unique Spanish, sustainable fabric variations, they tick all the green boxes too! Veras are proudly products of local traditional factories, made from sustainable materials within Spain. Best selling styles include the ‘Betis’, 'Gerona', 'Granada' and 'San Juan' and are available to buy now in Urban Outfitters and Number Six.

www.verashoes.com

Marshall Artist | AW'13

Marshall Artist's AW'13 lookbook shot in Manchester's notorious 'Mother Macs Public House'. 

To capture the true Britishness of the AW'13 collection the brand chose to work with local boxer Jon ‘2 Smokes’ Kays, who is a contender for the 'English Super Featherweight' title later this year.

The collection will be stocked at Togs + Clogs and Flannels.

www.marshallartist.co.uk

Universal Works X Millican

www.universalworks.co.uk | www.homeofmillican.com

Sperry Top-Sider | Made In Maine

When it comes to boat shoes, the 'Sperry Top-Sider' is at the forefront. Sperry have been around since 1935. It's the shoe that makes you think of summer, vacations, beaches and sailing. The exciting thing is, it's just got a whole lot better, with Sperry teaming up with Highland Shoe Co. to re-create the 'Authentic Original Top-Siders' for the 'Made In Maine Collection'.

Each shoe is hand stitched by artisans in Maine, using U.S. sourced leather and the finest materials. It's an art, a craft and each shoe is hand-crafted with a commitment to quality and this is why Sperry celebrates over seventy-five years of heritage as the 'Authentic Original' and an icon of American style. Compared to the 'Top-Siders' that are imported, these will cost you a whopping $300. If it's an original, high quality boat shoe your after then why go anywhere else.



www.sperrytopsider.com

History Of Running Shoes | The Dassler Brothers

In the history of running shoes competition spurs progress: between rival companies it is expected, but when those rivals are two brothers, that is something different.

Adolf and Rudolf Dassler – Adi and Rudi for short – were brothers who became business partners. Then, after twenty five years of success, a family feud created a schism that would divide them for the rest of their lives. Driven by bitter rivalry, each man went on to establish their own company and the resulting brands would go on to become two of the world’s leading sportswear brands: Adi’s Adidas and Rudi’s Puma.

The Dasslers' story plays out in the small Bavarian town of Herzogenaurach. A manufacturing town with history dating back to the Middle Ages, it was here where Christoph Dassler passed on the knowledge of shoemaking to his young sons. The Germany that Christoph’s sons were born into was a country in flux, emerging from one war and on the precipice of another. Yet, change presents opportunities, and the young Dasslers created their early footwear using tools and military remnants left by retreating First World War soldiers. Setting up a makeshift workshop in their mother’s laundry room, the Dasslers set to their task.

Quickly, a dynamic was established: Adi developed as a skilled and innovative cobbler, happy to spend hours tinkering in the workshop, while Rudi was a persuasive salesman, marshalling distribution and general management of the business. Complementing each other’s skill-sets, the brothers made a harmonious team.

The pair graduated out of the laundry room and into their own factory in 1924 when they founded Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik (Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory) and quickly they built their reputation as footwear specialists, creating spiked running shoes that offered superb traction and comfort.

Echoing the British example of Joseph William Foster, the Dasslers were quick to recognise the power of promotion. They supplied shoes to the German Olympic team in 1928 and 1932, building their domestic customer base in a nation that was becoming increasingly obsessed with sport and physical prowess.

With the shadow of a dark Nazi future looming over Germany, the Dasslers’ most celebrated triumph came at the 1936 Berlin Olympics, where they provided the black American sprinter Jesse Owens with the running spikes that helped him secure four gold medals. Adi had personally driven from Herzogenaurach to the Olympic village in Berlin, carrying a suitcase full of running spikes so that he could personally persuade Owens to wear Dassler.

Hitler had planned the Berlin Olympics as a demonstration of Aryan physical superiority. Although Owens’s victories represented a spanner in the works of the Nazi propaganda machine, for Adolf Dassler it wasn’t a question of politics; he was supporting an athlete not an ideology (while also gaining some valuable publicity for Dassler shoes).

It was the war that would drive a wedge between the Dassler brothers. Before 1939 the the business was booming; Dassler Brothers sold 200,000 pairs of shoes a year. But as conflict engulfed Europe, the Dassler factory was swallowed up by the Nazi war machine and re-purposed for the production of an anti-tank rocket launcher – ominously named the Panzerschrecks or Tank Terror.

Both brothers had joined the Nazi party in 1933 but it is said that Rudi was the more ardent Nazi. Adi was allowed to remain in Herzogenaurach to make boots, while Rudi was drafted into the Wehrmacht. It was against this backdrop of war and conflict that the roots of the Dassler brothers' feud began.

Although salacious rumours circulated about Rudi sleeping with Adi’s wife Käthe, the fallout is attributed to a misunderstanding during an air raid in 1943. “The dirty bastards are back again”, Adi reportedly said as Rudi and his family came down to their shared bomb shelter. Adi was referring to the Allied aircraft overhead but Rudi was convinced that his brother had aimed the slight at him and his family. To compound the issue, after the cessation of hostilities Rudi was arrested by American forces and sent to a prisoner of war camp, he remained convinced that it was his brother who had turned him in.

The wounds never healed, and so the acrimonious division of Gebrüder Dasslertook place, with Rudi moving across town to the opposite bank of the river Aurach, the river that divided the town, to found his rival business. On 1^st October 1948 Rudi created Ruda, later changing the name to Puma.

The whole town would feel the fallout. "The split between the Dassler brothers was to Herzogenaurach what the building of the Berlin Wall was for the German capital", said Rolf-Herbert Peters, a local journalist and author of 'The Puma Story'. Dominated by the two factories, the town became polarised, while the division permeating every aspect of town life. There were Puma affiliated bars that refused to serve Adidas workers, and each brand sponsored a football team, with ASV Herzogenaurach wearing the three-stripes of Adidas and FC Herzogenaurach the black cat of Puma. Even marriage between Adidas and Puma employees was frowned upon.

Herzogenaurach and its residents may have felt the division most acutely, but the rivalry was far bigger than the Bavarian town. With both brands dominating the European footwear market, not just in running but also in football and athletics, competition wasn't confined to who could produce the best footwear, it spilled over into the increasingly lucrative area of athlete endorsements.

The Dasslers' joint success with Jesse Owens in 1936 had put them firmly on the map, now both brothers aimed to harness the commercial power of athlete endorsements for themselves. A comical event at the 1960 Roma Olympics demonstrated the on-going struggle. At the time, both brands were courting the German sprinter Armin Hary, offering clandestine payments in exchange for Hary being seen in their product. Sensing an opportunity, the shrewd sprinter ran the 100 meters in Puma, winning gold. Later he came out to the medal ceremony in Adidas, hoping to collect from both brands. He didn't.

This set the tone for much of the ‘60s and ‘70s, with the rival brands passing surreptitious payments to the world’s leading athletes including Pelé (Puma), American swimmer Mark Spitz (adidas) and Muhammad Ali (Puma) in order to secure their patronage. Endorsement became just another battle ground for the warring brothers, as the sporting world was drawn into their personal feud.

Intense competition had powered the Dasslers to greatness, but it also proved to be their undoing. A myopic focus on what was happening on the other side of the river meant that both Adidas and Puma were caught flat footed by new developments in the sporting world. Both brands utterly failed to predict and take advantage of the running boom of the 1970's and slowly their dominance began to diminish as a new American brand named after the Greek goddess of victory began to encroach on their territory.

As for the Dasslers themselves, Rudi died in 1974 and Adi four years later in 1978. Although rumours of a secret reconciliation were whispered in some corners of Herzogenaurach, the brothers were finally united in the Herzogenaurach graveyard, where they are both buried – albeit at different ends.

Ultimately, the division was so deep that it outlived both brothers. It was only in 2009 that an exhibition football match was held in Herzogenaurach to finally heal the wound once and for all. The interesting question is: would they have achieved together what competition drove them to accomplish separately? Ultimately, their preoccupation with beating each other allowed a new, hungrier rival to steal a march. In time, both the three stripes and the black cat would be eclipsed by the Nike swoosh. oki-ni

Guset post by oki-ni.com